Lawn Care | Grass | Fertilizing | Hydro-seeding | Weeding | Witmer, PA

Lancaster, PA area's premiere professional full-service landscaping providers.

N-&-Z-Landscaping-LOGO

Call for a FREE estimate today, and leave the hard work to our family owned and operated lawn care team! You'll love your new lawn.

• Fertilizer

• Hydro-seeding

• Straw Mulch

• Weed Control

• Mowing

• Watering

• And More!

Trust us to make your space green

When you put down grass seeds, there's a few things you'll need - heat, light, and moisture are 3 obvious ones, but far too many home and business owners forget fertilizer! New lawns need fertilizer to grow, so turn to us for help.

Take advantage of all of our tips and services

NEW LAWNS NEED FERTILIZER

I can not emphasize this enough. Your lawn will not look attractive with out fertilizer!!! The first year of your lawn is crucial to establishing a thick stand of grass. Your lawn should be fertilized at least four times during the first year. The starter fertilizer that we use when seeding only lasts approx. 30 days.

 

The following guidelines should help you to achieve a healthy attractive lawn, but keep in mind that not all lawns are created equal. There are many factors that will effect how your lawn looks such as soil type, exposure, soil compaction, grade, and pH. There are other factors that are not attributed to your soil such as disease, water amount, heat, and the amount of light and traffic that your lawn gets. Use these recommendations as a guide and if in doubt, please consult a lawn care professional.

 

If your lawn was seeded in: November, December, January, or March

-  In late March or early April, but no sooner than 30 days after seeding , fertilize with 28-3-10 40%scu + iron or comparable

-  In late May around Memorial Day, fertilize again using 21-3-8 50% SCU, + .20% merit for grub control

-  Mid July, apply 100% organic fertilizer (slow acting fertilizer)

-  Early to mid September, apply 28-3-10 40%scu + iron, or comparable

-  Late October to mid November, again apply 100% organic fertilizer (slow acting fertilizer)

-  October and November, lime should be applied at this time to maintain correct pH

 

If your lawn was seeded in: April, May, or June

-  30 days after seeding, fertilize with 28-3-10 40%scu + iron, or comparable

-  Early to mid September, fertilize again with 28-3-10 40%scu + iron, or comparable

-  Late October to mid November, 100% organic fertilizer should be applied

-  Late October to mid November, lime should be applied if needed to maintain the correct pH

-  Late March to early April of the following year, fertilizer with crab grass preventer should be applied. We currently recommend 18-0-6 25%stu +.15% dimension

-  In late May around Memorial Day, fertilize again using 21-3-8 50% SCU, + .20% merit for grub control

-  Mid July, apply 100% organic fertilizer (slow acting fertilizer)

 

If your lawn was seeded in: July or August

-  As soon as you have grass plants about 4’ tall and have mowed one time in approx. 3 weeks, fertilize with 28-3-10 40%scu + iron, or comparable

-   Mid to late October, fertilize with 100% organic fertilizer (Slow acting fertilizer )

-  Late October to mid November, lime should be applied if needed to maintain the correct pH

-  Late March to early April, apply fertilizer with crabgrass preventer. We currently recommend 18-0-6 25%stu +.15% dimension

-  In late May around Memorial Day, fertilize again using 21-3-8 50% SCU, + .20% merit for grub control

-  Mid July, apply 100% organic fertilizer (slow acting fertilizer)

 

If your lawn was seeded in: September or October

-  In 30 days, apply 28-3-10 40%scu + iron or comparable

-  In November, apply lime if needed to maintain the correct pH

-  Late March early April, if grass is thick, apply fertilizer with crabgrass preventer, We currently recommend 18-0-6 25%stu +.15% dimension. If it is thin, apply 28-3-10 40%scu + iron, fertilizer only or comparable

-  In late May around Memorial Day, fertilize again using 21-3-8 50% SCU + .20% merit for grub control

-  Mid July, apply 100% organic fertilizer (slow acting fertilizer)

-  Early September, apply 28-3-10 40%scu +iron, or comparable

 

 

Hydro-seeding

Hydro- seeding is the application of grass seed in a slurry form consisting of, water, grass seed, fertilizer, recycled paper, and a tackifier (a type of glue). It greatly reduces erosion if it has time to dry before a rain. All the materials are weed seed free. The only way weed seed can be introduced using this method is if it is present in the water used to fill the tank or the weed seeds are present in the existing soil.

 

 

Straw Mulch

Straw mulch helps to retain moisture and helps with erosion. DO NOT remove the straw prior to mowing. The straw if left alone will decompose into the soil and the removal will damage young grass plants. The use of straw also will increase the need for fertilizer and increase weed growth. Straw is not sterile, and weed seed will be introduced to the lawn by its use. Rotting straw robs the soil of nitrogen, thus the greater need for fertilizer.

 

 

Weed Control

Weeds are common in new seedings and are relatively easy to get rid of once the grass is established. Weed killers, applied too early actually hinder the establishment of grass rather than help it.

If needed, apply a liquid broad leaf weed killer for lawns, ONLY AFTER GRASS HAS BEEN MOWED FOUR TIMES AND IS ACTUALLY GROWING, AND NOT DURING DRY WEATHER. DO NOT APPLY PLUS OR PLUS TWO PRODUCTS TO NEWLY SEEDED LAWNS. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS ON ALL PACKAGING AND OBSERVE ALL CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS SINCE WEED KILLERS ARE PESTCIDES.

A thick lawn by the use of fertilizers will reduce the need for chemical control of weeds.

 

 

Mowing

You should start mowing as soon as you can see grass over 3” tall. Do not wait till grass is 6” tall. Mowing your lawn actually encourages grass to fill in just like pruning shrubbery.

Many lawns are damaged by mowing too short and or mowing with dull blades. Sharpen your mower blades yearly. Mow your grass at no less than 3”. Your mower should be set in one of its highest wheel settings vs. one of its lower ones. Mowing higher does not mean mowing more often. Do not cut off more than 1/3 of the grass plant at a time for it will stress the plants and encourage weed growth as will mowing too short.

 

 

Watering

Some people are lucky and never have to water their lawns, but most are not. Spring seeded and yearling lawns need more water since their roots are not set deeply into the soil and are more likely to die with out water.

When watering, you should avoid light sprinklings and soak the areas by running the sprinkler for 4 to 5 hours before moving it. You should water in the early morning or evening to get the best benefit out of the water (less evaporation). Lawns look their best with about 1” of water per week. Adjust your watering to accommodate rainfall. Watering increases the demand for fertilizer. Too much water will promote fungal problems in your lawn.

 

 

PATIENCE:

I HAVE SEEN GRASS GROW VIRTUALLY ANYWHERE, EVEN OVER STONE DRIVEWAYS. MOST LAWNS COME IN LESS THAN PERFECT WEATHER CONDITIONS NOT IN OUR CONTROL PLAY A LARGE PART IN THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A LAWN. WHEN WE SEED, WE MAKE SURE THAT THE PROPER AMOUNT OF SEED AND FERTILIZER IS APPPLIED IN A MANNER IN WHICH TO INSURE A GOOD LAWN WILL BE ESTABLISHED. IF ONLY NATURE WOULD DO THE SAME AND INSURE FAVORABLE GROWING CONDITIONS.

ANY QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO GIVE US A CALL.

 

Thank you for your business and best wishes for your lawn.

 

Lawncare